If you think you’ve seen all that Bali has to offer—surf beaches, hip cafés, infinity pools overlooking rice terraces—think again.

On the eastern shores of Lake Batur lies a village that defies logic, science, and perhaps even death itself. Welcome to Desa Trunyan, a place where the dead are not buried, not cremated—but left in the open air. And strangely? There’s no smell.

In the shadowy early hours of the morning, while most of the world is still wrapped in dreams, there exists a place in East Java where fire glows an electric blue, sulfur dances in the air, and the earth itself seems to breathe. Welcome to Kawah Ijen, one of the few places on this planet where you can literally chase fire in the dark—and not get burned.